The Shangri-La Less Travelled

(Also published with huge edits in the Kathmandu post as a photo story, follow this link.)

Before your eyes is a breathtaking view, probably one that falls among the most spectacular of nature's creation that you are ever likely to witness. In front of you is an enchanting lake whose colors you have not quite been able to put a name on. Blue, purple, turquoise, brown, black...! Lake Phoksundo keeps changing its shade and there's a different color wherever you put your eyes on. The lake is surrounded by massive picturesque cliffs that juts towards the sky as far as the eyes can see. On top of everyone of them is sheer white snow that seems like a finely adjusted cap with little rivulets running down their crevices. And beyond these cliffs are real snowy mountains. The Kanjiroba range stretches leisurely all along the Northern side of this already compelling view. Now, unglue your eyes for a while and turn your back. What do you see? A dream like little hamlet with thatched little houses sitting in a gentle sloping meadow, ancient stupas spaced all over with wind blown colorful flags atop them, and jaw dropping white mountains completing the circle of paradise that you are in. If you were searching for a hidden Shangri-La seek no more for your quest ends in this little enclave of nature. If you forgot for a while where you were, you are in the Shey-Phoksundo National Park of Dolpa district and right now you are enjoying an unprecedented view of the Lake Phoksundo through your vantage point at Ringmo village.

In front of you is an enchanting lake...

whose colors you have not quite been able to put a name on

there's a different color wherever you put your eyes on.

the lake is surrounded by massive picturesque cliffs...

the lake is surrounded by massive picturesque cliffs

The Kanjiroba range stretches leisurely all along the Northern side

Century old Bonn Monastery right at the side of Phoksundo

Yaks from Ringmo village heading for higher pastures

jaw dropping white mountain to your left

jaw dropping white mountains to your right

this might give you an idea about your 360 degree view

Getting here is a hardship in itself though you will be amply rewarded for it later. The shortest

route is flying to Jufal from Nepalgunj which costs a whopping NRs. 9000 plus. The flight gives you breathtaking close up view of the mountains but also scares you crazy when the plane literally passes through a narrow space between two mountains. Phoksundo is a 2 day long trek from there along the Suligad(Phoksundo) river which also originates from the lake.

trekking along the gorgeous Phoksundo River

View like this with pine forests, and gorgeous mountains is plentiful along the trek

Sometimes the only thing that keeps you going is the thought of the lake. But long before you lay your eyes on the lake, there’s a pleasant surprise just before you finish the climb. The Suligad waterfall considered the waterfall located in one of the highest elevation of Nepal with is a sight to see with its thunderous cascading white waters. You have to hold your breath for a while because what you see ahead demands that you do. In the distance merging with the horizon is the blue patch of lake Phoksundo encircled by snow capped cliffs and mountains in the centre, to the right is a beautiful forest of fir and pine, and the river Phoksundo originating from the lake meanders here and there before finally becoming that roaring giantess of a waterfall with multiple white streams running down hill that you can see right beneath your legs. The entry to Shangri-La couldn’t be more dramatic.

Suligad waterfall just before you enter Shangri-La

do you see the lake far off in the horizon? Are you excited??

will you get a better picture than me then? I bet you

People generally spend 2 nights, semi or quarter circling the lake as it’s almost impossible to circle it completely due to steep cliffs except for seasoned cliff climbers or mountain goats. The area has an ancient aura about it possibly to do with the aspects of centuries old Bonn religion followed by the people here. In here, even the mountains loose their grandness and become pale, only a minor accomplice in this whole design of nature to make us feel humble against its magnificence. The stark thing you feel here is wherever you look besides the lake, you always have this crazy urge to turn around instantly and gaze at it again. Gaze all you can but you cannot have enough of the lake. It’s a sorceress. In the true sense. Maybe that feeling of having not enough of it will compel you to return to it again someday. And may be lure one or two friends to make this incredible journey to the Shangri-La!